Airbox foam for cars and bikes.
Washable foam filter media for airboxes, pod filters and off-road use. Single grade or dual-stage, cut to your element profile — and honest about where a paper filter is still the right answer.
Dust roads punish paper.
A paper element captures on its surface, so on a dusty road it blinds over quickly — and a blinded filter costs the engine airflow long before anyone thinks to check it. Foam captures through its depth, so it holds far more dirt before restricting anything, and it washes and refits rather than being replaced.
On Indian roads and anywhere off them, that difference is the whole argument. Where paper still wins is a road car under warranty with a certified filtration requirement — and we will say so rather than sell you foam for a car that should keep its original element.
Two grades, bonded.
The standard arrangement for dusty and off-road use is two layers rather than one fine one:
- Outer stage, 20 – 30 PPI. Faces the incoming air and takes the bulk of the dirt. Coarse enough that it does not restrict as it loads.
- Inner stage, 45 – 60 PPI. Does the capture the coarse layer cannot, protected from the bulk load by the layer in front.
The reason it works is loading behaviour. A single fine sheet does most of its capturing in the first few millimetres, so its face chokes while the rest is still clean. Staged, the dirt distributes through far more material — in practice several times the service interval for a small increase in initial restriction. Both layers are cut to the same profile and supplied together. See choosing a PPI.
A dry foam filter is half a filter.
For automotive use, foam wants oiling. Filter oil makes the strands tacky so fine dust sticks on contact instead of passing through the lattice, and it is the difference between a foam element that genuinely protects an engine and one that mainly stops gravel.
- Use proper foam filter oil — not engine oil, which is too thin, migrates, and gets drawn downstream.
- Apply evenly and let it distribute — work it through by hand and leave it before fitting, so there are no dry patches and no saturated ones.
- Do not over-oil — excess restricts airflow and can carry oil into the intake tract, which on some engines fouls a sensor.
- Re-oil after every wash — washing removes the oil along with the dirt. A clean, dry, unoiled filter refitted is a common and avoidable mistake.
Washing method matters too — rinse from the clean side outwards, squeeze rather than wring, and dry fully. See washable filters.
Send the old element.
The easiest order is a replacement. Send the existing filter — perished, torn or clogged is fine — and we match the profile, thickness and staging, then die-cut to it. Flat panels, rings, wraps around a frame and irregular airbox shapes are all cut the same way.
No old element? Send the airbox dimensions or a drawing. Tooling is kept, so a second set — worth having, so one is always clean and oiled and ready — costs less than the first.
Common questions.
Why use foam instead of a paper air filter on a vehicle?
Airflow and reusability. Foam flows more freely for a given capture level and holds far more dirt before it restricts, which matters on dusty roads and off-road where a paper element blinds over quickly. It also washes and refits rather than being replaced. Paper still wins where certified filtration on a road car under warranty is the requirement.
What is a dual-stage foam filter?
Two grades bonded together: a coarse outer layer that takes the bulk of the dirt and a finer inner layer that does the capture. It is the standard arrangement for off-road and dusty conditions because the dirt distributes through much more material before restriction becomes noticeable — several times the service interval of a single fine layer. We supply both layers cut to the same profile.
Do foam air filters need oiling?
For automotive use, generally yes. Filter oil dramatically increases how well fine dust is captured, because particles stick to a tacky strand rather than passing through a dry lattice. Use a proper foam filter oil rather than engine oil, apply it evenly, and let it distribute before fitting. Over-oiling restricts airflow and can carry oil downstream.
Which grade should I use for a bike airbox?
Typically a coarse outer stage around 20 to 30 PPI with a finer inner stage of 45 to 60 PPI. Genuinely dusty off-road use goes coarser on the outside; a road bike in cleaner air can run a single mid-grade. If you send the old element or the airbox dimensions we will match what was there.
Can you cut foam to fit my airbox?
Yes. Send the old filter, the airbox dimensions, or a drawing, and we die-cut to that profile — flat panels, rings, or wraps around a frame. Matching an existing element is easiest because it settles profile, thickness and grade in one go.
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