What printing actually costs.
Why per-gram pricing misleads, why two quotes for the same file can differ by a factor of three, and the five design changes that reduce a print bill most.
Per gram tells you little.
Most Indian print shops advertise a rate per gram, and it is the number customers ask for first. It is also a poor guide, because material is usually not the largest part of the cost.
Machine time generally dominates. A printer occupied for fourteen hours costs what it costs regardless of how much plastic went through it — so two parts of identical weight can differ substantially in price if one is a squat solid block and the other is tall, thin and covered in support structures. Weight simply does not capture that.
We quote per part against your actual file, because that is the only way the number is meaningful. What goes into it:
- Machine time — driven by height, path complexity, layer height and how much support the geometry needs.
- Material mass — including support material, which is paid for and then thrown away.
- Material type — TPU runs slower than PETG and is priced accordingly. See TPU printing.
- Setup — paid once per job, not per part, which is why ordering the full quantity together is cheaper.
- Post-processing — support removal, drilling or reaming critical holes, inserts, finishing.
Ask what the settings are.
If you have three quotes for the same file with a threefold spread, the difference is usually not margin — it is print settings that nobody stated.
A part at 15% infill with two perimeter walls uses a fraction of the machine time and material of the same part at 40% infill with five walls. Both are "the part you sent". Only one of them survives being used. The cheapest quote is frequently a display model priced as a functional one, and you find out when it breaks.
So when comparing, ask each supplier for wall count, infill percentage and layer height. Any shop that will not tell you is not quoting the same thing as the one that will.
| Part type | Walls | Infill | Suited to |
|---|---|---|---|
| Display model | 2 | 10 – 15% | Appearance, fit checks, things that sit on a desk. |
| General functional | 3 – 4 | 20 – 30% | Enclosures, brackets, most working parts. |
| Loaded or tooling | 5+ | 40%+ | Jigs, fixtures, parts carrying real load. |
Five changes that work.
- 01 — Hollow the solid volume. Thick solid sections are the most expensive thing in a print. Shell them and let infill carry the load; a well-designed hollow part is often stiffer than the solid one it replaced.
- 02 — Design out the supports. Support material is time and plastic you pay for and discard, and it leaves marks. Chamfer instead of overhanging, and reorient features so they self-support.
- 03 — Split large parts. Two halves that pack the bed flat often print faster and cheaper than one tall part, and bond or bolt together fine.
- 04 — Accept a coarser layer where nobody looks. Layer height is close to a direct multiplier on time. If the part is internal, 0.3 mm costs a third of what 0.1 mm does.
- 05 — Order the whole quantity at once. Setup is per job. Three orders of twenty cost noticeably more than one order of sixty.
Most of these overlap with printing well rather than merely cheaply — see file preparation.
Where printing stops being cheapest.
Printing has no tooling cost, so the per-part saving from ordering more is real but modest — it comes from setup, bed packing and material efficiency, not from amortising a tool. Expect a useful reduction at higher quantities, not a collapse in unit price.
That is also the honest limit of the process. Past a few hundred units, moulding usually wins, and the crossover depends on part size more than part count. We do both, so we will run the comparison and tell you when to stop printing — see low volume production.
There is no charge for a quote or a design review. Send the file and the quantity and you get a firm number, plus anything we spotted that is likely to fail. Charging for that would only mean finding the problems after you had paid for the parts.
Common questions.
How much does 3D printing cost per gram?
Per-gram pricing is how the trade advertises and it is a poor guide, because material is rarely the largest share of the cost. Machine time usually dominates, and two parts of identical weight can differ substantially in price if one is a solid block and the other is tall, thin and covered in supports. We quote per part against your actual file rather than against a weight, so the number you get is the number you pay.
Why do quotes for the same part vary so much between suppliers?
Mostly because the print settings behind them differ, and they are rarely stated. A part at 15% infill with two perimeter walls costs far less than the same part at 40% with five, and only one of them survives being used. When comparing quotes, ask what wall count, infill and layer height each assumes — otherwise you are comparing a functional part against a display model.
How can I make my part cheaper to print?
Five things, in rough order of effect. Reduce the volume of solid material — hollow thick sections and let infill do the work. Design so the part needs fewer supports, since support material is time and plastic you pay for and then throw away. Split a large part into pieces that pack the bed efficiently. Accept a coarser layer height on faces nobody looks at. And order the whole quantity at once, so setup is paid for once rather than per batch.
Is it cheaper per part if I order more?
Yes, though less dramatically than with moulding. There is no tooling cost to spread, so the saving comes from setup, bed packing and material efficiency rather than from amortising a tool — expect a useful reduction, not a collapse in unit price. Past a few hundred units the honest comparison is against moulding, and we will run it for you.
Do you charge for a quote or a design review?
No. Send the file and the quantity and you get a firm price, along with anything we noticed that is likely to fail when printed. Charging for that would only mean finding the problems after you had paid for the parts.
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